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Hellcat Grand Moff
Joined: 29 Jul 2004 Posts: 11921 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:32 pm Post subject: House Rules |
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Hellcat wrote: | Ok, gonna repost these rules here for all to view.
Early in the second episode Roth ended up in a situation of gambling with Possel and I didn't want to have to have them playing sabaac as that seems a little too cliche. Gambling in Star Wars, make it sabaac. I wanted something a little more unique and I came up with the idea of Hibaac based entierly on an online game I was playing a lot at that time called High Hat. Here are the rules as initially posted in the OOC thread. Below that will be some updates
Hellcat wrote: | Ok, Hibaac isn't going to be sabacc. There's a game I play online called High Hat, kinda like Blackjack played to 31 with each player being dealt three cards. The vaules of the number cards there being the number on the card, jack, queen, king are 10, ace is strickly 11. Unlike Blackjack you want cards of the same suit in order to add their values together.
Quote: | Example: A player has in their hand A of hearts, 2 of diamonds, and 4 of diamonds. They can add the diamonds cards together, but the A of hearts doesn't count towards that sum. |
Points are dependent on the highest value in a players hand at the end of a round. So in the above example, though the player a and the 2 and 4 of diamonds together, they would only get 11 points because the A of hearts has a higher value than the combined value of the other two cards. Had the two been a card valueing ten, then the player's hand would be worth 14 points. If all three cards are of the same suit, then all three get added together. So had the A of hearts been a diamond instead, the hand would be worth 17 points (11+2+4).
At the start of a round each player is dealt three cards. They can draw one off the top of the deck and then either discard that card if it is of no help or discard one of the cards already in their hand if the drawn card could help their hand. Or if there are cards in the discard pile (discarded face up), they may draw the top card but must then discard one of the cards in their hand. Getting 31 ends the round right there, otherwise the round wins when someone calls High Hat. Calling High Hat gives the other players a chance to draw and discard one last time before they have to show their cards.
So Hibaac is basically like this, except with four differences.
- First, it's played with sabacc cards, though there are no scramblers in the deck. No negative value cards, just the four suits Coins, Flasks, Sabres, Staves.
- The values of the face cards are Commander (12), Mistress (13), Master (14), Ace (15). The numbered cards are valued at their numbers, 1-11.
- The will be three chances to discard and draw. After the third chance both players must lay down their cards.
- Here it's actually possible to go over 31 (example: A of coins, M of coins, and 9 of coins would value 37 points). Going over bankrupts the player.
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Update:
The above rules were done just for two players as when the rules were created only Roth and Possel were going to play. So we'll call it Duel Hibaac. The following is for more than two players, and shall be called Standard Hibaac:
Standard Hibaac is played
- No more than four players may take part in a game at any one time.
- At the start of a round all players ante up twice, the first time is to the kitty and the second time is to the pot. Unless stated before a game starts, players make a two credit ante to the kitty and a five credit ante to the pot.
- Standard Hibaac is played until only one player is left. The winner is determined through the playing of rounds/hands. Like Duel Hibaac, one round/hand offers players up to three chances to discard and draw cards to better their hand. At the end of the round, the player with the highest (i.e. closest to 31) hand wins the kitty for the round. If there is a tie for highest hand, no one wins the kitty and it is then placed into the pot. The player with the lowest hand (i.e. furthest from 31) recieves a strike. If there is a tie for lowest hand, then all who tied recieve a strike. When a player recieves three strikes, they are eliminated from the game
- During each round players have a chance to raise the kitty before each time they draw and discard cards. All players get a chance to raise once before any player can discard and draw, and all players still in the game must meet the final bet before anyone discards and draws. (Example: Player 1 raises two credits, player two must see plaer 1's bet before they can raise and so fourth. If player four raises 10 credits, then the other three must see that bet before any can discard and draw) As there are three chances to discard and draw in a round, each active player therefore can raise three times in a round.
- Players have the option of raising the pot before all are to reveal their hand at the end of each round, but they can place no more than ten credits into the pot at this time. Also, the player who looses the round must place five credits into the pot before the ante for the next round begins.
- The last player left in the game wins the pot.
Finally, in both Duel Hibaac and Standard Hibaac, if a player manages to hit 31 before the end of a round, then they call Hibaac. In Standard Hibaac, this is an instant strike to all other players still in the game. |
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Hellcat Grand Moff
Joined: 29 Jul 2004 Posts: 11921 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Hellcat wrote: | Lightsaber Construction and Mod House Rule
- Lightsabers are constructed using the lightsaber repair skill. It takes a minimum of one month to construct a new lightsaber and requires a Very Difficult skill check. The character may choose to take longer, lowering the difficulty by one level for each additional month. Minimum difficulty to construct a lightsaber is Easy, which requires a construction time of four months.
- If the lightsaber repair skill is not listed in their stats then the character must use their Technical attribute to make the check. Difficulty increases one level. Example: Rohm takes four months to buld her lightsaber. Because Rohm doesn't have lightsaber repair she must make a Moderate Technical check in order to build her blade.
- Lightsabers may have no more than three crystals installed at one time. One crystal will be an Adegan crystal and will be refered to as the base crystal. This crystal determines the base damage of the lightsaber. For instance, if the crystal is a kathracite crystal then the base damage is 3D+2. The crystals of the Adegan family are kathracite (3D+2), relacite (4D), danite (4D+2), mephite (5D), and pontite (5D+2). If the base damage of your lightsaber is not listed it will be assumed the base crystal is a mephite and thus the lightsaber does 5D damage. The base crystal also determines the base color of the blade (player's choice as to what the color is).
- It takes three hours to remove the exsisting base crystal and install a new one. The process requires a Moderate lightsaber repair roll.
- Secondary crystals have varying effects, some affecting the lightsaber itself and some affecting the Jedi and their connection to the Force. For instance, one type of secondary crystal may increase the base damage of the lightsaber while another may completely change the base damage to another type of damage altogether. Secondary crystals may also change the base color of the blade slightly. For instance, if the base color is blue and a red secondary crystal is added then the blade color may become a light purple color.
- It takes half an hour to add a secondary crystal and a full hour to replace a secondary crystal (half an hour to remove the old crystal and half an hour to install the new crystal). The process requires a Moderate lightsaber repair skill check.
- Secondary crystals do not have to be added in order to increase the damage of a lightsaber. Improvements can also be made to the existing systems of the lightsaber in order to increase it's base damage. How much the base damage is being increased by determines the difficulty of the lightsaber repair check required. The difficulty checks are Easy (+1 increase), Moderate (+2 increase), Difficult (+1D increase), Very Difficult (+1D+1 increase), and Heroic (+1D+2 increase). A minimum of two hours is required with the time increasing by two hours for each increase in difficulty (ie two hours for an Easy check, four hours for a moderate check, etc.
- If a lightsaber repair check is failed when attempting to install a new base crystal then the lightsaber will not work and the crystal must be removed and reinstalled following the steps listed above. If the lightsaber repair check is failed when attempting to instal a secondary crystal, then either the crystal must be removed and reinstalled following the steps listed above or the lightsaber suffers a redeuce in damage equal to the number of points the check was missed by. I.E. if the check missed by five points then the lightsaber damage roll is lowered by five points (Example: you roll 18 on your damage roll but failed your lightsaber repair check by five points so you'd only do 13 in damage). This remains in effect until the secondry crystal is properly aligned or is replaced.
If a lightsaber repair check is failed when attempting to increase the base damage without installing a secondary crystal, then the lightsaber must be completely taken apart and rebuilt to it's base difficulty. Difficulty is a little bit different here, roll the base damage plus the inteded increase to the damage to determine the difficulty to the lightsaber repair check in order to disassemble the lightsaber, it is then a Difficult lightsaber repair check in order to rebuild the lightsaber. Example: you were attempting to increase base damage from 4D+2 to 5D and failed your check. Rolling 5D you get a 19, so you must now roll 19 on a lightsaber repair check in order to disassemble the lightsaber. Treat the wild die as a regular die when determining the difficulty to be met. Time to complete the disassembly and reassembly varies with a minimum of a month and one week. Roll 1D, this determines how many weeks are required to disassemble the lightsaber. It then takes a minimum of one month to reassemble the lightsaber, the difficulty lowered by each additional month taken.
The reason for the lowered difficulty in reassembling the lightsaber versus constructing a new one is that it is slightly easier to rebuild an existing blade than to build from scratch as elements already fit together properly and you should not have to be doing any trimming adjustments to get them back together as you may to first put them together.
- Modifications and accessories require varying difficulty and time in order to install or add depending on the modification is. For instance, if a simple fibra cord is added to make it more difficult to disarm the character, then it may be a Very Easy lightsaber repair check requiring a minute or two if there is already a place the fibra cord to be attached whereas the instillation of a pressure grip may require a Moderate to Difficult check and take half an hour or more to install. Most modifications and accessories will also cost a set amount of credits before they can be added.
- Blade length will be considered a modification even though it may not require the instillation of a special accessory to increase the length. Length increase is dependent on the difficulty of the lightsaber repair check met. Easy (+5% length increase), Moderate (+10% length increase), Difficult (+15% length increase), Very Difficult (+20% length increase), Heroic (+25% length increase). Rather than saying how much you want to increase the length by, roll lightsaber repair to determine if you can increase the length. The GM will then tell you what difficulties were met, giving you the option to increase the length up to the maximum increase met. A second, Very Easy lightsaber repair check is then required just to actually do the work. Anything above a +25% length increase requires an accessory to increase blade length (or possibly a secondary crystal).
- Missing the lightsaber repair check when attempting to add a modification or accessory may not affect the ability to use the lightsaber, though this is dependent on the GM. Failing to properly install a fibra cord will not affect the way a lightsaber operates while failing to properly instal a pressure grip could resulting in having to disassemble and reassemble the lightsaber, or at least remove pressure grip. Difficulty will be determined by the GM.
- Failing the skill check while attempting to increase the blade length without adding ancessory to increase the length has no effect unless a 1 was rolled on the wild die when attempting the Very Easy skill check. Then follow the instructions listed above for what happenes should the skill check for increasing base damage fail.
Edit: Forgot this point putting it in now.
- Both uncut base crystals and secondary crystals require a lightsaber repair check in order to cut the crystal properly for use in a lightsaber. This is a Difficult check for anyone who does not have lightsaber repair listed or has it listed but does not yet carry a type of lightsaber. Anyone with the skill who carries a type of lightsaber must only make a Moderate check. This is because characters with the skill who have a type of lightsaber listed in their equipment will be viewed as already having cut at least one crystal. A failed check will result in a flawed crystal that may affect the way the weapon works. If the check is mised by up two five points the flaw is missed by the character resulting in potentially deadly effects. Roll 1D to determine what effects the flaw has on the crystal. See charts below.
Base Crystal Flaws
- 1 - base damage lowered by -1
- 2 - base damage lowered by-2
- 3 - base damage lowered by -1D
- 4 - On a roll of 1 on the wild die, the beam flickers and fades. Lightsaber can't be used until it is repaired, which takes a minimum of two hours and requires a Moderate lightsaber repair check. The check may be made easier for each additional hour spent repairing the lightsaber.
- 5 - Lightsaber will not work even if the crystal is installed properly
- 6 - Chance each round it is used the lightsaber will explode. Roll 1D, if the result is either 1 or 6 the lightsaber explodes, dealing it's base damage to the user and anyone within two meters of them.
Secondary Crystal Flaws
- 1 - base damage lowered by -2
- 2 - base damage lowered by-1D
- 3 - Lightsaber only does base damage and gains no effects from crystal
- 4 - Causes surge 1D surge in effects crystal grants each time the lightsaber is activated. Roll 1D, if 1-3 the surge is -1D to the effects granted (I.E. if effects grant extra damage then flaw actually reduces the damage), if 4-6 the surge is +1D to the effects granted
- 5 - Causes crystal to surge, interfering with damage of base crystal each time lightsaber is activated. Roll 1D, if 1-2 then decrease base damage -1D, if 3-4 increase base damage +1D, if 5 decrease base damage -1D+2, if 6 increase base damage +1D+2
- 6 - Lightsaber does 3D+2 stunning damage to user once every three rounds.
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Hellcat Grand Moff
Joined: 29 Jul 2004 Posts: 11921 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Hellcat wrote: | Character Damage for Droids
Quote: | --- Character Damage ---------------- Droid Character Damage
--------- Stunned --------------------------------- Ionized/Stunned
-------- Wounded ------------------------------- Lightly Dammaged
----- Wounded Twice ------------------------- Moderately Damaged
------ Incapacitated ----------------------------- Heavily Damaged
---- Mortally Wounded ------------------------- Severly Damaged
--------- Killed -------------------------------------- Destroyed |
Unless listed among their special abilities droids may not heal naturally. Droids must either repair themselves or be repaired by someone else using the droid repair skill. A droid repair kit may be used to make the repairs.
Quote: | Droid Repair Kit
A succesful droid repair roll reduces damge by one level
------------ Degree of Damage --------------------- Difficulty
--------- Ionized/Stunned, offline --------------------- Very Easy
--- Lightly Damaged, Moderately Damaged ------------ Easy
----------- Heavily Damaged --------------------------- Moderate
----------- Severly Damaged --------------------------- Difficult
If roll is unsuccessful by 10 or more points, damage is incurred and the droid character worsens by one level
Multiple droid repair kits may be used in a single day, but increase the droid repair difficulty by one level for each additional use. |
A destroyed droid may be repaired but requires one or more Heroic droid repair rolls. Roll 1D to determine the number.
- 1-3 - One Heroic droid repair roll
- 4-5 - Two Heroic droid repair rolls
- 6 - Three Heroic droid repair roll
For each failed attempt to repair a destroyed droid add one additional Heroic droid repair roll up to a maximum of six. If the number goes above six the droid is too badly destroyed to be repaired and reactivated. If the destroyed droid is repaired it's damage status is severly damaged and players must wait 4D days to attempt to repair the droid.
It may ultimately be easier just to build an entirely new droid body and download the droid character's memories into it than to attempt to repair a destroyed droid.
Repair Time
Quote: | --- Droid Character Damage ---------------- Time Taken
--------- Ionized/Stunned ----------------------------- 1D Minutes
--------- Lightly Damaged ---------------------------- 4D Minutes
------ Moderately Damaged -------------------------- 8D Minutes
-------- Heavily Damaged ----------------------------- 4D Hours
------- Severely Damaged ---------------------------- 6D Hours
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Hellcat Grand Moff
Joined: 29 Jul 2004 Posts: 11921 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hellcat wrote: | Blood Typing
Ok with all this about questioning blood transfusions I guess it's time to do a typing set. I'm setting it up so that there are two types to look at. Basic Blood Type and Overall Blood Type. The Basic Type determines who can recieve blood from whom and who can give to whom. The types are based on the ABO blood group system. So what are they?
A+ - Enth Affirmative
A- - Enth Adverse
B+ - Krenth Affirmative
B- - Krenth Adverse
O+ - Orenth Affirmative
O- - Orenth Adverse
AB+ - Thesh Affirmative
AB- - Thesh Adverse
------------------------------- Basic Blood Type Chart
Then there's the Overall Type. This is used for cross-species donation. Beings within the same species will only worry about their basic blood type, easy as that. But because there are instances of interspecies breeding, mostly between human and near human species, it seems like there shound be a case for beings of one species donateing blood to beings of a different species within the same grouping. This part is still being worked out at the moment, but thank's to Orgaloth I have more of a direction to work in.
Overall Blood Types include
HNH
Members Include
- Arkanians
- Borneck
- Chiss
- Ensos
- Epicanthix
- Firrerreos (Firrerreons)
- Humans
- Miralukas
- Mirialans
- Pantorans
- Ropagu
- Wroonians
- Zelosians
- Zeltrons
HNU
Members Include
- Boltrunians
- Keed
- Omwati
- Pau'ans
- Stennes
- Sullustans
- Taungs
- Xa Fel
DND
Members Include
CNI
Members Include
- Bothans
- Defels
- Geelan (Geel)
- Klatooinians
- Shistavanens
- Squibs
CNN
Members Include
- Ameran
- Codru-Ji
- Covallons
- Nalroni
- Ranth
RPL
Members Include
- Barabels
- Baragwin
- Chubbits
- Draethos
- Gorothites
- Nikto
- Rodians
- Trandoshans
RPE
Members Include
- Chistori
- Nosaurians
- Tchuukthai (Wharls)
RTM
Members Include
- Clawdites
- Falleens
- Zolanders
MAM
Members Include
- Abyssin
- Anomids
- Givin
- Gotals
- Togruta
MML
Members Include
MLP
Members Include
- Devaronians
- Lurmen
- Tarro
- Wookiees
More to come |
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